Despite the frenetic pace of the work, farmworkers suffer from what Melissa Kendrick, the head of the Food Bank for Monterey County, calls the “obesity paradox of the poor.”

“They are fat, yes, but they are malnourished because all they are eating is garbage,” she said.

The consumption of cheap, starchy food has been a major contributor to the epidemic of obesity across America. But the rates among farmworkers here are significantly higher: 85 percent are overweight or obese compared with 69 percent nationally.
- Thomas Fuller, In a California Valley, Healthy Food Everywhere but on the Table, Nov. 23, 2016

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